THE EASTERN RAIL LINE
Taking a journey by local train is a great way to travel slowly. This mindful and sustainable means of traveling emphasizes connecting with a destination, the local culture and the people who live there. Taiwan’s extensive railway network covers the entire island in a loop. The East Line passes through the East Longitudinal Valley (formerly known as the East Rift Valley)—surrounded on either side by towering mountains and endless canyons—and is perhaps the most scenic route in the country. It helps that the East Coast is a comparatively undeveloped natural wonderland.
Depending on the season, the ride paddies of the East Longitudinal Valley present a dramatically different landscape. In between planting seasons, the valley is interspersed with the barren brown of unsown soil. During shoulder seasons, the bright gold of quickly growing rapeseed—planted as an interim cover crop—creates idyllic “fields of gold” that easily give fully blooming rice paddies a run for their ‘photogenic’-money. During the two rice harvesting seasons in the spring and summer, fields of rice, which grow up to 1.2 meters (4 feet) in height, create the Valley’s most cherished scenery.
The East Longitudinal Valley is best experienced by mixing train rides, bicycle rentals, and moped rentals to leisurely travel around the idyllic countryside. The area’s small villages are filled with family-run bed & breakfasts and farmstays where visitors can savor locally grown flavors like honey-scented black tea from Wuhe, award-winning rice from Chishang, and juicy pineapple, guava, custard apple from Luye.
Upon arriving in Taitung, switch pace by visiting Taitung Railway Art Village, which is a driving force in Taitung’s thriving art scene. Originally the location of Taitung’s train station, the park is now an open-air creative space for artists. Shipping containers left behind from the days of freight have been converted into galleries and showcase the work of local artists. Just next door, Tiehua Music Village, is a multi-functional space with weekly musical performances as well as a nightly crafts market.
The East Longitudinal Valley is also home to the indigenous tribes of the Amis, Puyuma, Bunun, Truku, Sakizaya, and Seediq. Each year the tribes host Harvest Festivals which are open to the public in a limited-capacity. Other exciting ways to explore Taitung include visiting the badlands at Liji Moon World, taking a dip in the hot springs at Jhihben, or going on a cycling adventure in Chishang.
Finally, if staying in Chishang for more than a day, consider traveling up the Southern Cross-Island Highway to visit some of Taiwan’s high mountain wonders. Destinations on this alpine road include Lisong Hot Spring, which is said to be the most beautiful wild hot spring in Taiwan, and Jiaming Lake, Taiwan’s most beautiful alpine lake. Check out things to do in Taitung for more information.
