Artists In The Valley

One of the art pieces exhibited along County Road 197 during the East Rift Valley Granary Festival.

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CHISHANG & COUNTRY ROAD 197

The small village of Chishang, which sits at the border of Taitung and Hualien counties, and has only 8,000 residents but is the East Longitudinal Valley’s (formerly known as the East Rift Valley) cultural and artistic center. Surrounded by idyllic rice-paddy-filled countryside, Chishang’s main streets are filled with cafes, art galleries, vegetarian restaurants, and traditional eateries selling hand-made noodles and bento boxes made with the famous local rice. Many shops around town also double as artist galleries, and the town plays host to several music festivals and art festivals each fall.

The East Rift Valley Land Art Festival features installations by local and foreign artists.
The East Rift Valley Land Art Festival features installations by local and foreign artists.

During the Chishang Autumn Harvest Rice Art Festival, Taiwanese musicians of all backgrounds are invited to perform on an impromptu stage built on top of the area’s rice fields, which are golden in full bloom. With rice fields in the foreground, musicians center stage, and the grand Central Mountain Range looming in the distance, this festival exemplifies Taiwan’s ability to inspire dialogue between people and nature.

The East Rift Valley Land Art Festival features installations by local and foreign artists.
The East Rift Valley Land Art Festival features installations by local and foreign artists.

The East Rift Valley Granary Festivities is an art festival which features art pieces and sculptures placed at different spots along the quiet and picturesque two-lane County Road 197. The road is a lesser-traveled route which cuts along the foot of the eastern hills, through indigenous tribes, alongside terraced rice paddies. The art pieces add to the road’s already plentiful attractions, making it a perfect quiet countryside getaway.

The unassuming entrance to 4.5 KM Coffee.
The unassuming entrance to 4.5 KM Coffee.

4.5km Coffee is an open-air coffee shop located less than a half-hour bike ride from Chishang on County Road 197. Compared to the cafes on Chishang main streets, 4.5km Coffee offers a quieter environment. The cafe’s owner, Mr. Peng of Amis Tribe, is a wood carving and batik (wax-resist dyeing) artist. After coming home to take care of his aging parents, he decided to transform the family house into a coffee shop. 

The bar of 4.5 KM Coffee is decorated with hand-carved driftwood.
The bar of 4.5 KM Coffee is decorated with hand-carved driftwood.

All beans here are home-roasted. Mr. Peng explains his philosophy: “self-assurance is the only thing to strive for, and not the approval from others.” If you arrive to find the coffee shop empty, Mr. Peng might be taking a break out in nature or looking for inspiration for his art pieces. In this case, a DIY coffee brewing guide is prepared at the shop for visitors willing to brew their own cup of coffee. This is the manifestation of Mr. Peng’s philosophy: It is all about the simplicity of enjoying moments in life.

County Road 197 takes cyclists through Chishang's pristine rice fields.

While in the area, don’t forget to rent a bike and cycle through Chishang’s famous golden rice-fields (each season has its own beauty).

Finally, if staying in Chishang for more than a day, consider traveling up the Southern Cross-Island Highway to visit some of Taiwan’s high mountain wonders. Destinations on this alpine road include Lisong Hot Spring, which is said to be the most beautiful wild hot spring in Taiwan, and Jiaming Lake, Taiwan’s most beautiful alpine lake. Check out things to do in Taitung for more information.

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