TAIWAN’S MAGICAL FOREST
One of the Eight Views of Taiwan, the Alishan Mountain Range is a group of peaks in Central Taiwan, famous for its ancient tree groves, inspiring sea of clouds, and thrilling cliff-scaling alpine railway. The Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, located at between 2,000 meters and 2,800 meters elevation, is Chiayi’s prime destination for high-mountain hiking, forest bathing, stargazing, and sightseeing. The area is also the gateway to Taiwan’s tallest mountain Mt. Jade, being separated from the Jade Mountain Range by just a single river valley.
In addition to countless hiking trails and viewing platforms, Alishan National Forest Recreation Area is also home to the final section of the Alishan Forest Railway, which ferries passengers from the parking and lodging area to various destinations in the recreation area. There are several lodging options available, which are a good idea if you want to take in the sunrise the following day, and also because it takes at least a day to fully appreciate the area’s beauty.
Alishan’s Old Growth Forest
Alishan is home to some of Taiwan’s most famous old-growth tree groves. Located in a truly awe-inspiring high-altitude primeval forest, these groups of trees draw thousands of visitors a year. One of the area’s oldest trees, a 3,000 year-old red cypress tree, was spared from harvesting during the Japanese colonial era. It continued to survive, despite having its roots burned by a lightning strike in 1956, but finally succumbed to water erosion in 1998. Today the tree’s vestige, located at the Sacred Tree Station of the Alishan Rail Line, is one of the many attractions that remind us of the wonder of nature.
Hiking Trails
Alishan National Forest Recreation Area has several easy trails that take visitors on a journey through lush forest, along remnants of logging railways, and into groves of thousand-year-old giant trees. The Giant Tree Trail and the Shuishan Trail are the most popular routes. The Giant Tree Trail alone features 36 cypress trees with an average age of 1000 years. As you walk along these trails, you will find that these giant trees resemble the Ents in “The Lord of the Rings” and the fantastical scenes in the animated film “My Neighbor Totoro.”
Sunrise Viewing at Alishan
High above the entrance to the recreation area on the ridgeline of, are viewing platforms that overlook the valley to the east. For locals, traveling to the ridgeline of Alishan to view the sunrise is something of a religious pilgrimage. This is made easier by staying on the mountain, and riding the final stretch of the Alishan Forest Railway before dawn. From the last station, it’s less than a five minute hike to the Zhushan Sunrise Observation Deck and Xiaoliyuan Lookout. Of course, it’s possible to hike up from the hotel area as well, but be prepared to hike around an hour in the dark and allow yourself more time to reach the platforms before sunrise.
Zhushan Sunrise Observation Deck
Zhushan Sunrise Observation Deck is the first area reached after stepping off the train. It provides an excellent vantage point to observe the sunrise and viewing the sunrise from here can be a real communal experience as dozens (and sometimes hundreds) of people eagerly await the first moment the sun peeks over the Mount Jade Mountain Range. Part of the beauty of viewing a sunrise here is experiencing it with strangers who have traveled from all over Taiwan.
Mount Ogasaware Observation Deck (Xiaoliyuanshan Lookout)
The Mount Ogasaware Observation Deck, also known as “Xiaoliyuanshan Lookout”, is only a short walk from the Zhushan Sunrise Observation Deck. And it’s highly worth it, this wooden platform, which is situated at an altitude of 2,488 meters above sea level, boasts a panoramic view of the entire Mount Jade Mountain Range and Alishan Mountain Range. Due to its excellent field of view, and clean mountain air, this platform has also become a destination for stargazing tours in recent years.
Alishan Forest Railway
The Alishan Forest Railway is a world-famous alpine logging railway, originally built by the Japanese nearly a century ago, that has since been repurposed for tourism. Currently a potential World Heritage Site, the railway begins at close to sea level, and traverses endless broadleaf forest, steep Z-shaped switchbacks, 77 wooden bridges, 50 tunnels, and mountain cliffs before arriving at the top of the Alishan Scenic Area. Taiwan’s train bentos, made fresh daily, are available at the quaint mountain village and halfway stop, Fenqihu, and are some of the heartiest train meals in the world.
Due to damage caused by previous typhoons, the Alishan Forest Railway is currently only open from Chiayi Station to Shizilu Station, as well as within the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area from Alishan Station to Zhaoping Station, Shenmu Station, and Zhushan Station.
The Seasons of Alishan
Even as every day’s sunrise is different, each season also offers something unique for visitors: in the spring, Cherry Blossoms cover the forest in pink; during summer evenings, the forest is lit up by thousands of fireflies; in the fall, maple trees dot the mountainside with swaths of vibrant red and orange hues; and in the winter, fresh harvests of Alishan’s winter tea are ready for tasting. Additionally, from November to April, it’s prime season to experience Alishan’s famous sea of clouds.
