TAIWAN’S ANCIENT CAPITAL
With nearly 400 years of history, Tainan’s central district is not only filled with multicultural heritage architecture but also features the island’s most cherished local street food.
Central Tainan features Chihkan Tower (formerly known as Fort Provintia). The fort was built by the Dutch around 1853, or about 30 years after Fort Zeelandia. Sadly, today, nearly none of the original architecture remains and the structure has since been rebuilt with Qing-dynasty architecture, and features a pavilion, a temple, and a library.
At one time the administrative center of Tainan, this location has continued serving as the epicenter of Tainan’s commercial district. There are also 94 temples in this district. With so many gods, nearly every weekend features a parade held to celebrate the birthday of a temple god. These temple fairs are a very special and important part of Taiwanese folk-culture that happen to be visually fascinating.
The Futai Restaurant has been serving classic Tainan-style-buffet fare for three generations now. A 1-minute walk from Chihkan Tower, the joint is located just across the street from another important landmark, the Tainan Grand Mazu Temple. Local food is known for being simple but delicious. Ordering is divided into a main portion, shrimp fried rice or braised pork rice, and side dishes including: braised loofah, stewed bok choy, fried water bamboo shoots, a fattier cut of braised pork and several simple soups incl. fish ball soup. If you’re in the mood for something more exotic, try the pan-seared fish filet (4 USD), or fish soup (5 USD).
All fresh ingredients are on display for customers at Jinde Spring Rolls. (right)
Other local delicacies include milkfish porridge, slack season noodles, and Tainan beef soup, both of which are considered breakfast staples. Places nearby that serve local fare include: A-tang Porridge Shop, A-han Porridge Shop, Six Thousand Beef Soup, and Yong-le Beef Soup. For even more diversity, take a 5-minute walk westward to Yong-le Market located on Guohua St. The street is lined with famous stalls including Jinde Spring Rolls (think of them as Taiwanese burritos), Fusheng Noodle Stall and Huang’s Eel Noodle Shop.
Guohua St. is one of the epicenters of Tainan’s street food culture. When it comes to Squid Vermicelli, Qiu Jia Xiao Juan Mi Fen is the local favorite. It’s easy to get here right after opening only for the place to be packed. The noodles are deliciously chewy and the soup is just savory enough without being too salty. Don’t be surprised if there’s a line.
Last but not least, Eirakucho Drum Tea House, tucked away in Shuixian Gong Market, is a renovated 150-year-old Qing-era teahouse. Visit here to enjoy tea tasting, a local set meal, and a unique evening performance featuring drumming and educational comedy informing on the area’s history.
