Meinong’s Hakka Tradition in a Bowl

Meinong's Rainbow Flat Rice Noodles

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LIN’S FLAT RICE NOODLES

Meinong’s Hakka are so famous for their warm hospitality that the township bears the nickname “the land of smiles”. This humility is reflected in its cuisine, which is down-to-earth, nutritious and heartwarming. A bowl of flat rice noodles or “bantiao” might look fairly simple, but its origin can be traced to a period of Hakka migration under the impact of war. 

A bowl of Hakka flat rice noodles.
A bowl of Hakka flat rice noodles might look seemingly plain and simple, but the complexity is rolled deep into why and how it’s made.

When bantiao” was first served in Taiwan’s early agricultural society, food was scarce, and physical labor was demanding. To preserve fresh ingredients was a difficult task. The hard-working and frugal Hakka figured out a solution: they ground rice grains into a paste, steamed the paste on a flat surface, and then cut the steamed rice sheets into fine noodles. It happened to be easy to preserve, and also made for a hearty breakfast. Since then, this traditional breakfast food has been passed down in Hakka villages.

Meixing Street, also known as “rice noodle street”, is home to one of the oldest establishments in Meinong. Meinong Lin’s Flat Noodles has been serving this classic food since 1966. The restaurant is entirely family-owned-and-operated, and is not in its fourth generation. The restaurant features no fancy interior decorations, just honest and delicious food. Their home-made rice noodles are known for being smooth and extra slippery in texture and seasoned with fried shallots. The fragrance in the air will surely tickle your appetite!   

Semi-transparent flat rice noodles, traditionally enjoyed in a bone broth, is another common dish in Taiwanese culture. Rice noodles can also be enjoyed with chili paste, garlic sauce, and sweet bean paste, paired with dried shrimps, pork or chicken, and mixed with carrots, wood ear mushrooms, bean sports, green onions and celery. 

With Taiwan’s continuously evolving foodie scene, traditional dishes are constantly invented with modern tweaks in an attempt to attract the attention of local foodies. Spectrum House in Meinong, also a fourth generation restaurant, specializes in using vegetables as a food-dye to make rainbow-colored flat rice noodles. Spectrum House only serves this photogenic delicacy for four hours each day, as the noodles need to be made to order. With both traditional and modern delicacies, Meinong’s Hakka cuisine is one of the culinary treats of Southern Taiwan. 

To learn more about Hakka culture while in Meinong, be sure to check out KCS Oil-Paper Umbrella Studio’s DIY oil-paper umbrella workshops.

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