TAIWAN’S ANCIENT CAPITAL
The Old Five Channels Culture Zone is located in Tainan’s most historic district. It stretches from Shuixian Gong Market to Jinhua St., and encompasses Shennong St., Zhengxing St. and Kangle St. In the 19th century, these five canals were the key to transporting goods to Anping Port, as a result, this area became a flourishing commercial district.
Famous Shennong Street is one of Taiwan’s most well-preserved historic streets. During the Qing dynasty, this street was the entrance to the Five Channels commercial area and was bustling with trade. While many store facades have undergone restoration, the original road remains and there is still much heritage architecture to be seen. In the evening, the street is illuminated with rows of paper lanterns creating a nostalgic atmosphere. The rustic Taikoo bar, located in a renovated Qing-dynasty house and filled with vintage furniture, is a perfect example of a recent retro-oriented trend in Taiwanese cafes and bars and is worth a visit. Behind the buildings on either side of Shennong St., one can see vestiges of the old channels. However, sediment deposited from Taiwan’s constantly eroding central mountain range has since filled the waterways.
It’s easy to feel completely at ease in Taikoo bar’s rustic interior. (bottom)
The God of Wind Temple, located adjacent to Shennong St. is the only temple in Taiwan to be dedicated primarily to the God of Wind. The central effigy of the God of Wind is flanked by the God of Thunder (not Zeus) and the Goddess of Lightning. At night the temple is bathed in soft light giving the place a sense of divinity and tranquility and offers great photo opportunities.
The outside of Real Guts Cafe. (top-right)
Wares on display at the trendy Real Guts Cafe. (bottom)
The renovated buildings on Zhengxing St. are home to many bed and breakfasts, cafes, dessert shops, spas and salons. These historic spaces were the backdrop for the films Cape No. 7, Warriors of the Rainbow: Seediq Bale and KANO—all of which were record-breaking Taiwanese blockbusters. Wei Te-sheng, director of the former two films, is himself from Tainan and has opened a cafe stocked with film props (Real Guts Café) nearby.
NINAO Gelato, whose “a Dolce Vita di Tè” gelato flavor was awarded second place on the 2015 Gelato World Tour, is just around the corner. With locally sourced ingredients, their flavors include Tieguanyin (tea), Eastern Beauty (tea), Matcha, Black Sesame, Mango, and Red Bean Milk. Their handmade gelato sells out quickly, so be sure to get there early to avoid disappointment.
We Love Apartment’s suites are cozy and polished. (right)
The highly-rated We Love Apartment is a hip bed and breakfast with an interesting hodgepodge of modern and Japanese-inspired decor. In its prior incarnation, the building was a series of small studio apartments. The owners have since transformed the first floor into a trendy cafe that doubles as an exhibition space. Their self-proclaimed modus operandi is “injecting art into everyday life”.
Being Taiwan’s first modern city, Tainan is packed with narrow streets, repurposed heritage architecture, and trendy reimaginations of the past. The best way to experience these hidden peculiarities is, of course, to slow down and take a self-guided walking tour—you never know what might be waiting for you just around the corner.
