A Peek Into Taiwan’s Colonial Past (Pt. 2)

The colorful Sword Lion of Anping Lu Jing-tang Mansion.

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ANPING HISTORIC DISTRICT

In Tainan’s Anping Historic District, the traditions and customs of generations of fishermen live on. The rooftops of many homes are adorned with Wind Lion Gods. These stone statues face towards the Northeast with an open mouth. When the northeast monsoon blows, the statue functions as a whistle and emits a noise signaling the fishing season has arrived. These lion statues, while cute in appearance, are revered by residents as emissaries of the wind, with the power to both suppress the wind and offer protection from evil spirits.   

Another prominent tradition in Anping is the worship of the Taoist folk god Wang Ye. In Anping’s Miao Shou Temple, one can view the oldest Wang Ye boat or “king ship” in Taiwan. Another local temple, Xilong Temple offers protection to those wishing for safety at sea. Also in the area are the first two mansions built by Taiwan’s early millionaires, Anping Lu Jing-tang Mansion and Wong Ji Shi Mansion

The inside of Anping Lu Jing-tang Mansion.
Anping Lu Jing-tang Mansion is one of the oldest residences in Taiwan.

A testament to Anping’s importance in modern Taiwanese history is the fact that Anping Old Street was the first named street in Taiwan. Yanping Old Street and Xiaozhong St., both adjacent streets, were both built during the era of Fort Zeelandia. Between them, an adventurous maze of smaller alleyways with names like Jasmine Alley and Rouge Alley are steeped in history and hold many photographic opportunities.

Anping Historic District is filled with  quiant alleyways like "Kuan Alley".
Smaller alleyways like “Kuan Alley” are filled with historic architecture..

The outer walls of particularly old homes in Anping are adorned with unique Sword Lions. At the moment only 37 examples of this 300-year-old tradition remain. Haishan Hall’s green bat-shaped Sword Lion is said to be an auspicious symbol that blesses those who visit. Sword Lion Square, located within the historic district, offers educational and DIY courses, and sells souvenirs.

Across the bay, Anping Harbor National Historic Park features installation art, and both the undeveloped Yuguang Island which is popular with wedding photographers and the Sunset Platform offers sunset viewing opportunities. Anping offers a look into Taiwan’s complex history, and an opportunity to experience the robustness of traditional engineering and construction methods.

There’s a saying, “If you haven’t been to Tainan, you can’t say you’ve been to Taiwan. And if you haven’t been to Anping, you can’t claim to have visited Tainan.” Anping and the nearby village of Sicao are indeed the origin of Taiwan’s modern history.

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